At the end of February 2020, I was lucky enough to go on one last big adventure just before the globe swiftly and suddenly closed its borders due to COVID-19.

Blissfully unaware of how different our lives would be only a few weeks later, some pals and I jetted off for a week to explore the lunar landscapes and ancient marvels of Jordan.

Nestled in the Middle East, this stunning country plays host to two of the world's premiere destinations: the Dead Sea and New Wonder of the World Petra. It's also one of the driest countries on the globe, which provides for plenty of cinematic desert scenery like that of Hollywood favorite Wadi Rum.

But Jordan isn't just good looks. It's warm smiles and genuine hospitality; the smell of burning frankincense as you wander through a spice market. It's shisha and tea by the campfire on a starry night. It's the best falafel you'll ever have.

More than anything, it's a must-visit. Here's what to know before you go:

General tips
Getting there
Getting around
When to go
What to pack
How to plan your itinerary
- Petra
- Wadi Rum
- The Dead Sea

General tips

Purchase the Jordan pass.

The pass includes free entry to 40+ tourist sites around the country (including Petra, Jerash, and the Temple of Hercules), plus an e-guidebook. If you purchase it before getting to Jordan, your tourist visa will also be included.

The pass starts at 70JD (~USD$98) and can be purchased online here. In my opinion, it's an excellent value; a tourist visa alone costs 40JD, and a 1-day visit to Petra starts at 50JD. With the Jordan Pass, you've already saved money before visiting anywhere else!

Take out cash prior to or upon arrival.

Jordan uses the Jordanian Dinar (JD) as currency. Some places throughout the country do also accept the US Dollar, but it's best to have JD on hand.

One very important thing to know is that ATMs are not widespread in Jordan. (We learned this the hard way.)

You'll definitely want cash on hand for certain expeditions (such as a Jeep tour through Wadi Rum or a camel ride in Petra), purchasing souvenirs, filling up at gas stations in rural locations, etc. I highly recommend getting cash out prior to landing in Jordan, or else upon arrival at the airport.

Jordan is accommodating for English speakers.

Most road signs are written in Arabic and English, and tourist sites are extremely accommodating for English speakers. On top of that, plenty of people throughout the country know English.

It's safe.

Despite the political turmoil of some of its neighbors, Jordan is safe to visit.

Expect security checks inside hotels and tourist attractions, in addition to highway police checkpoints (I'll go into that later.) Hotel checks generally include metal detectors and bag scans. Note that some hotels prohibit guests from bringing outside food or drink onto the property.

Alcohol is legal.

You won't see it in 7-11s or grocery stores, but most of the hotels we stayed at served it and there were liquor stores in Amman. Generally if you're in a more touristy part of the country, it'll be easier to find.

Getting there

Jordan is serviced by two major international airports: Queen Alia International Airport (AMM) up north in the capital of Amman, and King Hussein International Airport (AQJ) in the southern city of Aqaba.

AMM is the more accessible of the two, with daily flights to and from major cities across Europe, North America, the Middle East, and Southeast Asia.

Getting around

You'll want to rent a car.

It's best to rent a car upon arrival and use it for the duration of your trip. Not only does this provide the flexibility to see Jordan at your own pace, but it's cost-effective - our rental cost around USD$45 per day with insurance. Not to mention, it's an epic road trip.

It's possible to use taxis to get around the country, but it'll add up. It may also prove difficult to hail a cab in more remote parts of the country.

Alternately, you can get around by bus, but it's a lot more time-consuming and requires structuring your trip around the bus schedules (which aren't always convenient.) For example: if going from Amman to Petra, you'll have to choose between the once-daily 6:30AM JETT Bus departure, or else rely on a local bus, which only operates once completely full.

Expect police checkpoints.

The Desert Highway is one of the main thoroughfares in Jordan, and stretches from the country's northern border with Syria down to its southern neighbor Saudi Arabia. Random police checkpoints are located all along this road. If you get pulled over, expect police to ask for your driver's license and/or passport, as well as the car registration.

We got pulled over twice, and both were very friendly encounters. Don't let it intimidate you!

Tips for driving:

If you've never driven in a foreign country before, you may feel a little intimidated at first. Fortunately, driving in Jordan is fairly easy, but there are a few things to keep in mind.

Rules of the road include driving on the right-hand side. Most road signs are in English.
Make sure you have a GPS on hand, whether it's in your rental or on your phone. If you don't have international cell service, download a map of Jordan offline on Google Maps prior to traveling.
People honk - a lot. They do this for everything: to thank you, flip you off, warn you they're passing you, etcetera. Blinkers are also rarely used.
On the Desert Highway specifically, the speed limits change rapidly as you pass through various towns (which tend to appear out of nowhere.)
There are speed bumps everywhere in Jordan - and I mean absolutely everywhere. They tend to be the same color as the road, and sometimes appear with very little warning, so just be extra cautious!
The roads can get pretty dark, especially in the hills around the Dead Sea, and in the area surrounding Wadi Rum. If you feel uncomfortable, take it slow - people will pass you.
Gas stations are not self service; there will be attendants on hand to fill up your tank for you. Most stations we stopped at accepted credit card, but it's not a bad idea to have cash on hand for these situations. Always check and make sure the attendant has filled the tank to the top!

The only place you won't want a car is in Amman.

Unlike the rest of the country, the best way to get around Jordan's capital is definitely via rideshare.

Amman is a very cool yet chaotic city; cars there make New York City cab drivers seem tame. The city itself is not really built for walking, so I don't recommend doing so unless you're staying in the city center or you want to go on a serious adventure.

Uber and taxis, on the other hand, are extremely cheap within Amman city limits. You can catch a ride across town for less than USD$3 - seriously. Even a ride to the airport will only run you between $20-30.

When to go

Jordan is a desert climate, which means scorching dry heat is common during the summer. The winter, alternately, sees chilly temps (particularly at night) and a rainy season.

The most popular time of year to visit is during the springtime (March-May), when temperatures are at their mildest and the rains have eased. This usually means larger crowds and higher rates.

We were in Jordan the last week of February, and it was absolute bliss. While temperatures dropped at nighttime (to the point where we needed robes and blankets to endure the chill at our Wadi Rum glampsite) the weather was practically perfect during the day, averaging in the upper 60s/lower 70s.

Some other perks to visiting at this time included a lack of crowds (the busiest site we visited was Petra; everywhere else we practically had to ourselves) and cheaper rates (we stayed in a 5-star Hilton resort on the Dead Sea for USD$112.) I would definitely visit again at this time of year.

What to pack

Be mindful when packing your wardrobe. While Jordan is one of the more liberal countries in the Middle East, they are still primarily an Islamic culture. This means it's best to leave your short shorts and spaghetti straps at home.

My packing list included jeans, loose t-shirts and sweaters, leggings, maxi skirts, long sleeved shirts, sunglasses, a backpack, and a hat.

If your trip involves an excursion to Petra or Wadi Rum, I highly encourage bringing comfortable hiking clothing. This includes sturdy tennis shoes or hiking boots and thick socks. Don't forget your sunscreen!

Over at the Dead Sea people do wear bikinis, but it’s best to bring a cover-up for any time spent out of the water. Regardless, avoid bringing an expensive suit - the salt can ruin the colors. Wash the suit immediately after use to help keep it from fading.

How to plan your itinerary

My general recommendation is to start in Amman, work your way down to Petra, hop over to Wadi Rum, then finish up your tour with some relaxation at the Dead Sea.

We were originally planning our trip like that, but some scheduling complications meant we ended up doing the reverse - starting at the Dead Sea and ending in Amman. While this was fine, I think it would've been more enjoyable to have the relaxing part of our trip (i.e., the Dead Sea) at the very end, versus all of the city sightseeing we ended up doing in Amman.

On top of that, while Amman is a surprising and very cool city, the real gems of Jordan (in my opinion, anyway) lie in its natural wonders. It's a lot more climactic to start in the urban sprawl and save the spectacular scenery for later.

Accommodations

When it comes to where you stay, Jordan has a number of amazing resorts, hotels, campsites, glampsites, and more to fit your traveling style. We paid on average around 80JD per night. As we had more than 2 people traveling, there were several hotels that charged us a fee upon arrival for having additional guests in the room.

Of the places we stayed at, I highly recommend the following:

Hilton Dead Sea Resort & Spa (excellent 5-star facility with multiple infinity pools, 7 restaurants and bars, sea-facing balconies, and private beach access with mud baths)
Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp (totally awesome glamping site in the heart of Wadi Rum; features private Bedouin-style tents and bubble rooms with some meals included and access to desert excursions)
Petra Marriott Hotel (fantastic 5-star hotel located mere minutes from Petra, with multiple restaurants, a pool, Turkish bath, and breathtaking views of the Petra Mountains)

Jordan is by far one of the most hospitable places I've ever traveled to, so you can expect to feel at home wherever you choose to stay. We stayed at a mixture of upscale resorts and 3-star hotels and received the same stellar hospitality at every one. I was truly blown away by how gracious and accommodating people were to us throughout the country!

Visiting Petra

For an in-depth guide to Petra, check out my post here. For now, these are the top things to know:

Plan to spend at least one full day there. Petra is huge and filled with history, so it's recommended to spread your visit over multiple days. While we would've loved to do this, time constraints meant we could only spend one day there. Despite this, we were still able to see almost everything we wanted to - but one full day is absolutely necessary.

The trick is to get there early and stay until close. Petra is open from 6AM-6PM May through September and 6AM-4PM the rest of the year. If you plan to hike the 850 stairs leading up to the Monastery or other excursions like the High Place of Sacrifice, you'll definitely want to start early. You'll also want to do this if you're visiting during the summer when Petra experiences crushing heat.

Bring water, cash, and snacks. There are places to purchase refreshments inside, but it's always best to be prepared. Have cash on hand for any souvenirs you want to buy, as well as extra experiences like a camel ride or mule trek.

Wear comfortable clothing. Bring a hat or scarf to ward off the sun, wear breathable clothes you can move in, and don't forget your hiking shoes, sunglasses, and sunscreen! You'll be covering some serious ground during your visit, most likely in the heat, so comfort is key.

Visiting Wadi Rum

You can read all of my Wadi Rum tips and tricks here, but the key things to know are:

Stay overnight. We spent just over one full day in Wadi Rum - and we definitely could've used more time. We arrived in the evening, stayed the night in a totally epic Bedouin-style glampsite, then spent almost the entirety of the next day cruising around the Valley of the Moon.

You'll definitely need at least 5 hours to explore the protected desert's otherworldly landscape, but the real gem is the canvas of a million stars you can witness come nightfall. If you have the time to stay multiple nights, I absolutely say do it, but at least one night is a must!

Try to arrive before sunset. If arriving by car, you can park at the visitor's center at the entrance to Wadi Rum. From there, you'll most likely be taken on a 4-wheeler through the desert to your campsite, if staying overnight.

We arrived after dark and definitely wished we'd gotten there earlier so we could've gotten our first glimpse of the desert in daylight! Plus, most of the campsite reception desks operate on limited hours, so the sooner you can get there the better.

Bring snacks and water. We elected to do a half-day Jeep tour of the desert, which lasted from around 11AM until sunset. Our tour did not include meals of any kind, and there are very few (if any) places around the park to get refreshments. I highly recommend coming prepared with plenty of water and snacks to stay hydrated and happy!

Wear comfortable clothing. Seeing Wadi Rum via 4x4 is not simply an off-road adventure. You'll be climbing rocks, navigating slot canyons, and scaling sand dunes throughout your visit to soak up the magnificent sights around the famed desert. Dress accordingly - and don't forget your camera!

Visiting the Dead Sea

Check out my post here for more details on visiting the lowest place on Earth. For the SparkNotes version:

Avoid getting the water in your eyes or mouth. There is so much salt in there, it'll burn really badly, so be extra careful! Don't dive in, and avoid submerging your head.

Limit your time in the sea to 15-minute intervals. If you're staying at a resort or visiting via public beach, there should be instructions there on how to safely enjoy the sea.

To get the ultimate spa experience, float for 15 minutes, get out of the water and slather yourself in Dead Sea mud, then float again for another 10-15. Your skin will never feel softer!

Prepare for an amazing experience. If I could've stayed and weightlessly floated in that water forever, I would've. It was surreal - a true 'pinch me' moment. If you get the chance to go, take it and don't look back!

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What to know before visiting Jordan